ute decker - sculptural jewellery / ethical jewellery links and resources
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ethical jewellery information for jewellers

suppliers, links & information
including Fairtrade Gold, Fairmined Gold

Ethical Making Symposium


28 - 29 march 2018

the symposium will discuss the importance of implementing an ethical approach and how to face the challenges of building an ethical making practice in today’s design and making industry.


this in-depth workshop is designed and run by two leading proponents of ethical jewellery, greg valerio mbe and ute decker, and is about sustainability and ethical awareness in the jewellery industry.

it is aimed at those involved in the designing, making and selling of jewellery as well as students and teachers of jewellery and follows from the symposium on march 28.

greg and ute will share their expertise of ethical making, empowering delegates to build and develop their own ethical making practice.




ute decker - sculptural jewellery in fairtrade gold, fairtrade silver, recycled gold, recycled silver and bio-resin, ethical jewellery, sustainable craft, sustainable luxury, ethical jewellery links, ethical jewellery supplier, green jewellery, ethical luxury, eco jewellery

read ute's ethical policy >






Fairtrade Gold
Fairmined Gold >


suppliers of ethical metals
and traceable stones >


bench tips >


industry Initiatives / NGOs >


a philosophical approach
thinking about ethics
in the creative practice >


ethical jewellery in the media >





jewellery by ute decker:

Yes, we do this Fairtrade Gold
Yes, we do this Fairtrade Silver
Yes, we do this Fairtrade Ecological Gold
Yes, we do this 100% recycled gold
Yes, we do this 100% recycled silver
Yes, we do this bio-resin derived from sunflowers
Yes, we do this non-toxic studio chemicals
Yes, we do this recycled & recyclable packaging
Yes, we do this eco-friendly print materials
Yes, we do this carbon neutral web hosting
Yes, we do this 100% renewable energy supplier (in my office, and previous studio, unfortunately not (yet) offered at Cockpit Arts where I have my studio with about 100 other makers)



ute decker - ethical jeweller based in london  crafting architectural & sculptural one-off and limited edition pieces in the finest sustainable materials. ethical luxury, sustainable luxury, architectural jewellery, ethical jewellery, eco jewellery, ethical jewelry, green jewellery, eco jewellery, fairtrade silver, recycled silver, recycled gold, tracable gemstones, tracable diamonds, ethical diamonds, blood diamonds, ethical gemstones

ute decker is a London-based artist jeweller crafting one-off and limited edition statement pieces in the finest sustainable materials available.

ute has been described as "queen of ethcial jewellery" and cited by the uk crafts council as "a leading proponent of ethical jewellery" ute decker was one of the worldwide first Fairtrade Gold licence-holders and is regularly invited to write and speak on ethical jewellery.

"when i started as a studio-jeweller it was a major time-consuming challenge to find practical information on how to work in a sustainable manner.  so on my website i started sharing my research, suppliers and whatever useful information i have found on the way"

below you can find extensive information and links on ethical jewellery practices and suppliers.


ute decker on facebook

http://www.facebook.com/utedecker - has now reached the 5000 friend limited

please join me at the new FB page:



One day ethical jewellery seminars

Greg Valerio and myself offer a tailored-made one day training course on ethical jewellery, specifically designed at empowering a new generation of aspirational ethical jewellers who want to be green as well as design gorgeous jewellery.

This course is tailored to meet the challenges faced by designer jewellers. One this course we cover the complex issues of supply chain management for gold, gemstones and diamonds, green studio practices, definitions of ethical, fair trade and conflict minerals and a knowledge based approach of where to source ethically.

To find out about availability and fees please email:
greg@gregvalerio.com  or teaching@utedecker.com



& informative websites on ethical jewellery


The Red & Green Book

Ethical Jewellery Manual

Cred founder and fair trade gold activist Greg Valerio has been working with numerous organisations to create a special guide about fair trade metals and gemstones.

The aim of this material is to kick-start those who want to begin the exploration of what it means to be an ethical jeweller. With a basic introduction to the mining sector, these modules will explore the issues, the supply chains and recommend actions that jewellers can take to improve their ethical performance. The merits of Fairtrade / Fairmined / Recycled.

The Red & Green Book will cover Mining, Gold, Diamonds and Gemstones as well as a glossary on industry initiatives that are seeking to address the ethical and Fair Trade uplift of our industry.










Fair Jewelry Action - Ethical Jewellery Developments
(blog of Marc Choyt - USA & Greg Valerio - UK)

a great source of informaiton on ehtical jewellery developments



Peter Oakley
Royal College of Art, School of Material, has written a series of very interesting papers for the benchpeg newsletter - all papers below can be found at: http://rca.academia.edu/PeterOakley

So What’s Wrong with Gold Mining Anyway?

Introducing Ethical Gold

Reflections on Ethical Gold

Fairtrade and Fairmined Gold

Why is ASM Dfferent?

Industrial Mining and Anti-Mining Campaigns



Earthworks, NGO USA>

A non-profit organization dedicated to protecting communities and the environment from the destructive impacts of mineral development by working with communities and grassroots groups to reform government policies, improve corporate practices, influence investment decisions and encourage responsible materials sourcing and consumption.

Dirty Metals
Mining, Communities and the Environment >
Report by the No Dirty Gold NGO
The purpose of this report is to show you how much metal there is in your life from the gold in your jewelry to the aluminum in your automobile and to explain how it was produced. If you live in the United States, your annual consumption of newly-mined minerals (as opposed to those produced from recycling) comes to 21 metric tons*—just over 57 kilos a day. This report will show you what lies behind that stupendous lode of copper and tantalum, gold and platinum.We’ll explain how the mining of these and other metals damages landscapes, pollutes water, and poisons people.We’ll show you why modern, industrial mining is one of the world’s most destructive industries. And finally, we’ll show you what we as consumers and concerned citizens can do to clean it up.




read Cafod report on gold >

Uneart Justice - Counting the Cost of Gold




for occassional information on issues

relating ethical jewellery -

join me on facebook - facebook.com/utedeckerjewellery


ethical metals

Fairtrade Gold, Fairtrade Silver, Fairtrade Platinum
& Fairmined Gold, Fairmined Silver, Fairmined Platinum



Fairtrade Gold
dedicated Fairtrade Gold site of the Fairtrade Foundation, with information on

- using Fairtrade Gold in your jewellery
- becoming a full Fairtrade Gold licence holder
- programme for small jewellers >
- where to by Fairtrade Gold jewellery - directory of Fairtrade Gold jewellers




see also


Fairmined Gold
The Association for Responsible Mining, ARM
who in partnership with the Fairtrade Foundation have developed the standard for Fairtrade & Fairmined Gold.
Fairtade and Fairmined have now separated but have similar standards and both offer gold, silver & platinum.




ethical metals, recycled gold, recycled silver
& traceable gemstones


Fairtrade Gold & Fairmined Gold suppliers
once you have registered with Fairtrade or Fairmined you will receive a list with licenced metal suppliers, casters, etc
eg: Leading UK casting houses embrace Fairtrade Gold >

And finally we have chain -
Fairtrade & Fairmined compliant chain from Patrick Schein based in Paris

Fairtrade gold chain, Fairmined gold chain, ethical chain, ethical jewellery supplies, ethical jewellery findings, fairtrade findings, fairmined findings

Cred Sources, UK >
CRED Sources offers Fairtrade Gold & silver to the jewellery trade - main importer of FT Gold to the UK.


Betts Metals Refinery
for sheet, wire and grain in Fairtrade Silver & Fairtrade G
old & recycled silver & gold
in summer 2016 Capella has been aquired by http://www.bettsmetalsales.com/

All of the products and services previously offered by Capella are still available through Betts Metals, UK. If you would like to place an order or retrieve a quote you could email buxton@bettsmetals.co.uk or give us a call on 0121 233 2413 and ask for Nina, Karen or Rose



Vipa Designs Ltd - UK (also work with international clients)

"Vipa Designs are designers, casters and manufacturers of high quality gold, silver and platinum jewellery, offering our services both to private clients and to the trade.
We work with traceable metals of all types; standard, 100% recycled, fair trade and fair mined.
We are licensed to import, trade, manufacture and design jewellery by both Fairtrade International (fair trade) and the Alliance for Responsible Mining (Fair mined)
Ask us about fully traceable recycled metals; bronze, silver, gold, platinum and palladium. "

Vipa also carries recycled platinum in the UK (from Hoover & Strong)




Bellore - Hatton Garden >

Since 2011 Bellore is the first stockist in Hatton Garden of 100% recycled silver.

39 Greville Street
London EC1N 8PJ
0207 404 3220


Cooksons >

Offers recycled silver & gold which they call Eco gold & Eco silver.
personally i am not keen on the term eco silver - why not name it what it is: recycled silver & recycled gold. Still it is great Cookson is offering these products as well as Fairtrade Gold, including Fairtade chain..



Britain’s leading casting houses now offer entire catalogues in Fairtrade Gold - including Fairtrade Gold wedding bands

Fairtrade Gold wedding rings
Fairtrade Gold wedding ring blanks

“Five of Britain’s leading casting houses supplying semi-finished gold product to the jewellery trade are proud to now include Fairtrade Gold and precious metals in their catalogues.
Jewellers can now buy everything from sheet, wire, casting grain, tube to chain from Cooksongold, Cred, Hockley Mint, Vipa Designs and Western Beamor  who are all offering some or all of their catalogues in Fairtrade gold. Significantly all five companies also offer consumer-ready wedding collections which are available in Fairtrade metals upon request.
Each of the five suppliers are registered with Fairtrade as master licensees to supply small jewellers, making Fairtrade Gold simple and trouble-free to incorporate into their ranges.

Visit www.fairgold.org  for further information.



Hoover & Strong - USA >
This USA company offers Fairmined Gold as well as, 100% recycled precious metals in their Harmony range including gold, platinum, palladium, sterling silver, fine silver and copper, conflict-free diamonds and fair trade gemstones, with over 30,000 eco-friendly products to choose from, including findings and chain.

eco-friendly precious metals refiner and manufacturer hoover & strong received its certification from independent auditer and sustainability expert scientific certification systems (scs) for its harmony metals products – a sign that 100 percent of the products in the range use metals from recycled sources. hoover & strong was the first manufacturer in the jewellery industry to win scs certification back in august 2009.

Vipa (see above) also carries recycled platinum in the UK (from Hoover & Strong)


Stuller - USA >
100% recycled metals – double check, though on each item for the "refined karats" symbol.

United Precious Metals Refining, Inc - USA >
United Precious Metals, claims 100% recycled for its fine gold and fine sliver. These claims are certified by Scientific Certification Systems.


for more suppliers see Ethical Metalsmiths website



A&E Metal Merchants - Australia >
A&E Metal Merchants in Australia – double check, though for each item.

Schiefer & Co - Germany >
Refinery based in Germany offering 'gold with identity'.



Traceable Gemstones & Diamonds

Gemstones are even more problematic than diamonds.  An estimated 75% of coloured gems come from suspect sources, involving either poor working conditions or worse being the major source of funding for civil wars in West Africa, including Congo.  There are currently a few reputable  suppliers  who strive to closely track stones  from mine to market aiming to support  environmental protection, fair labour practices and a tight chain of custody to ensure  legality, traceability and transparency in the supply chain.


www.fairtrade-gemstone.com - offering Columbia Gemhouse stones in the UK -


The Jeweltree Foundation


Open Source Minerals

Kamoka Pearls

Natures Geometry

Open Source Minerals

Ruby Fair




for recycled diamond suppliers see Ethical Metalsmiths website




Bio Resin >
Canonbury Arts shop in London who used to sell Bio resin as a safer alternative to toxic resins and Jesomite is now closed. But if you do an internet search you should hopefully find an alternative supplier.





Suppliers of eco-fair precious metals and gemstones

Lieferanten öko-faire Edelmetalle, öko-faires Gold, öko-faire Edelsteine, öko-faire Diamanten

Fair Trade in Gems and Jewelry
Dipl.- Geol. Thomas Siepelmeyer
Westfalenstr. 180
D – 48165 Münster – Hiltrup
Tel.: +49 2501 964803
Fax: bitte tel. anfragen
mobil: +49 170 8987914
Email: epupa@web.de


The Jeweltree Foundation
Glacisweg 75
6212 BN Maastricht
The Netherlands
0031 (0)412 784.033


Fa. BrazilGems
88662 Überlingen
Tel: 07551-838587


Honduras Opal
Michael Vogt
Chromstraße 5,
30916 Isernhagen H.B.
Telefon: 05 11 – 8 97 98 96
Fax:      05 11 – 8 97 98 97


Edelsteinschleiferei & Mineralienhandel
Peter Lind Edelstein- Mainzerstraße 24
55743 Idar- Oberstein
Tel 06781 5622471
Fax 06781 23932


One world Minerals  – Bernd Graf
In der Röde 24
64367 Mühltal
Fon: 06151 – 7879849
Fax: 06151 – 7879847
E-Mail: hallo@oneworldminerals.de


Laurins Garten
Roßgumpenstr. 10
72336 Balingen
Tel: 07435-919930





List of ethical jewellers in Germany

Öko-faire Goldschmiede in Deutschland, öko-fairer Schmuck, öko-faire Trauringe






green bench tips


first steps to green your jewellery >
Fact sheet by Ute Decker with information on eco-friendly printers, renewable energy supplier, suppliers of stones, metals and recycled packaging and more.


eco-friendly pickle fact sheet >
Fact sheet by Ute Decker with information on suppliers, preparation, application and disposal.

Chemicals used in jewellery making can be extremely toxic and a hassle to dispose of
safely. One of the simplest things you can do to lessen the negative health and environmental impact is to reduce chemical use in the workshop and choose less toxic
alternatives for those that can't be avoided.

The most commonly used studio chemical is pickle and many jewellers have already made the change back to traditional pickles such as citric acid or a vinegar and salt solution as non-toxic alternatives with excellent results.

published in the Goldsmith Magazine, April 2010

Saver Alternatives >
Jeffrey Herman has published Safer Alternatives including sustainable products / less-toxic chemicals to use in the jewellery workshop on the  Society of American Silversmiths website.
Chemical Responsibility - Disposal solutions for the studio >
Article in the Jewelry Artist Magazine covers a saver alternative for pickle and patinas.
12 Greener Chemicals for Your Studio >
published in the Art Jewelry Magazine

Green Jewelry Newsletter
Christine Dhein is the founder "Green Jewelry News," a website and newsletter, with “green” news and events along with eco-friendly studio practices and tips.

Highlights from Art Jewelry's Green issue >
Various articles including in-depth info and tips on making your jewelry and studio more eco-friendly.




the links below are quite old now but still
give a good introduction,
for up to date media reports - join me at


ethical jewellery
in the media

National Geographic - The Real Price of Gold >

Photograph by Randy Olson



Goldsmith Magazine - ethical jewellery at IJL

Less than a year after setting up as a studio-jeweller, The Goldsmith magazine invited Ute Decker to write a brief report on two of the debates on ethical jewellery. Instead of a short report I wrote a several page long article on my experience & impressions & a plea for action - published in the oct 2010 issue.

Goldsmith Magazine








read report >


File on Four

With record gold prices stimulating demand, Jenny Cuffe reports from the Democratic Republic of Congo on the scale of illegal mining and asks if the industry does enough to ensure that gold supplies aren't being used to fund conflict.

listen to programme >


CBS 60 Minutes
Congo's Gold

Five million people have died in the Democratic Republic of Congo in a war fueled primarily from gold mined in the country by warlords and smuggled out to be sold on the open market. Scott Pelley reports.

view programme >

read some interesting comments on this programme from fairjewelry.org >


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© ute decker, photography elke bock & ulrike trültzsch